Amphithéâtre Maurice Halbwachs, Site Marcelin Berthelot
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Abstract

Today's analytical techniques are revolutionizing our approach to ancient perfumes, enabling us to compare the results of analyses with texts, iconography and archaeological discoveries of perfumers' workshops, as well as documenting the daily, funerary or votive practices of populations for whom little or no written trace remains.

The recent development of analytical techniques, in particular with the coupling of chromatography and mass spectrometry, now makes it possible to identify biological materials through associations of molecular markers. Identifications are thus more reliable, and the method can be used to study invisible controls, such as impregnations on the porous walls of ceramic or stone vases, or invisible film deposits in glass flasks. Our research has enabled us to identify fragrance bases (dairy products, vegetable oils such as olive oil or Moringa sp. bên oil, animal fats), as well as essence preparation methods (decoction, enfleurage in oils or waxes, cooking). Some less volatile odorants can also be found: conifer resins, exudates of leafy species ( Pistacia terenbithus mastic, Boswellia sp. incense, or more exotic resins such as liquidambar or styrax). There have been few discoveries of the aromatic principles that make up the top notes, but preparations based on camphor, sage or rockrose have been identified in Sardinia in glass vases dating from the 6th-4th centuries BC.

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